Before the Houseboat: The Fascinating Story of Alleppey and Kerala's Backwaters

The Road to Alleppey: Our First Morning in Kerala and the Story Behind Its Famous Backwaters

Our Kerala road trip officially began with an early morning drive to Alleppey—but before stepping onto a houseboat, we discovered the fascinating history behind Kerala's magical backwaters.

After a long but memorable 40-hour train journey and a much-needed night's rest in Ernakulam, it was finally time for what we had been waiting for over the last few months.

The actual Kerala trip.

No more railway stations.

No more train compartments.

No more waiting.

Just us, our luggage, and an entire state waiting to be explored.

A Fresh Start to Our Kerala Adventure

The alarm rang early.

Although the previous day's journey had been tiring, none of us needed a second alarm. The excitement itself was enough to wake us up.

One by one, everyone got ready, freshened up, and packed their bags. Since we would be travelling to a different destination that day, there was no unpacking or taking things slowly. Everything had to be back inside our suitcases before leaving the hotel.

One thing we had carefully planned while creating our itinerary was our meals.

We had intentionally booked hotels where breakfast and dinner were included.

It might seem like a small decision while planning a trip, but during the journey it proved to be one of the smartest choices we made.

Think about it.

When you're travelling every day, the last thing you want is to wake up early and immediately start searching for a restaurant.

Similarly, after spending an entire day exploring new places, walking for hours, and travelling long distances, you don't always have the energy to go out again just to find dinner.

Having breakfast and dinner at the hotel saved us both time and effort.

It allowed us to start our mornings peacefully and end our days without unnecessary stress.

Sometimes the smallest planning decisions make the biggest difference.

Breakfast Before the Journey

We headed to the hotel's dining area for breakfast.

The atmosphere was calm.

Travellers from different parts of the country were quietly enjoying their meals while discussing their own travel plans.

Some were leaving for Munnar.

Others were heading towards Thekkady.

We were about to begin our journey towards one of Kerala's most iconic destinations.

Alleppey.

With breakfast finished and everyone ready, we collected our luggage and walked outside.

Our driver bhaiya was already waiting for us.

Over the next several days, he would become much more than just a driver.

He would introduce us to Kerala's roads, stories, shortcuts, local food recommendations, and countless little facts that only locals know.

After loading our bags into the cab, everyone settled into their seats.

The engine started.

The excitement returned.

Our Kerala road trip had officially begun.

Today's Destination: Alleppey

Whenever someone talks about Kerala, one picture almost immediately comes to mind.

A beautiful wooden houseboat floating peacefully through calm waters.

Tall coconut trees lining both sides.

Small villages passing slowly.

Fishermen rowing boats.

The reflection of clouds dancing on the water.

That picture belongs to Alleppey.

Today officially known as Alappuzha, it is one of Kerala's most famous tourist destinations and perhaps the place that represents Kerala better than anywhere else.

Naturally, it became our first major stop.

But before telling you about our own houseboat experience, it is worth understanding why this place is so special.

Because once you know its history, you'll appreciate it even more.

Alappuzha or Alleppey?

Many travellers become confused after seeing two different names.

Is it Alleppey?

Or is it Alappuzha?

The answer is both.

Alappuzha is the official Malayalam name of the city.

Alleppey is the older anglicised name that became popular during British rule.

Even today, most tourists still use "Alleppey," while official government documents and signboards generally use "Alappuzha."

No matter which name you choose, you're talking about the same beautiful destination.

How Alleppey Came Into Existence

Although people have lived in this region for centuries, modern Alappuzha owes much of its development to Raja Kesava Das, the Diwan of the Kingdom of Travancore during the late 18th century.

At that time, Travancore wanted a major port that could compete with other trading centres.

Raja Kesava Das recognised the importance of this coastal region and developed Alappuzha into a thriving commercial port.

Soon, spices, coir products, coconut products, and other goods began moving through the town to different parts of India and the world.

This earned Alappuzha another nickname—

The Venice of the East.

The comparison wasn't made because of European architecture.

It was because of water.

Like Venice, Alappuzha's canals became roads.

Boats became vehicles.

Water became life.

Even today, many people living around the backwaters continue to depend on boats for daily transportation.

Why Is Alleppey Famous?

Ask ten travellers why they visit Alleppey, and most will probably answer in one word.

Houseboats.

But surprisingly, houseboats are only one part of the story.

Alappuzha is famous for:

• Kerala's spectacular backwaters.

• Traditional kettuvallam (houseboats).

• Coconut-lined canals.

• Paddy fields lying below sea level in the Kuttanad region.

• Beautiful beaches.

• Coir industry.

• Snake boat races during the Onam season.

• Peaceful village life that moves at a completely different pace from modern cities.

Unlike hill stations that impress with height, Alleppey impresses with calmness.

Life here doesn't seem rushed.

Everything moves slowly.

Even time feels slower.

But What Exactly Are Backwaters?

Before visiting Kerala, I always imagined backwaters as large lakes.

I was wrong.

Backwaters are actually an interconnected network of lagoons, lakes, rivers, canals, estuaries, and inlets that run parallel to Kerala's Arabian Sea coastline.

Freshwater flowing from rivers meets seawater from the Arabian Sea, creating a unique ecosystem.

Since these waters are protected from the rough waves of the sea by narrow strips of land and islands, they remain relatively calm.

This peaceful water network stretches for nearly 900 kilometres across Kerala.

It isn't limited to Alappuzha alone.

The backwaters also extend through regions like:

• Kochi

• Kumarakom

• Kottayam

• Kollam

• Ashtamudi Lake

• Vembanad Lake

• Kuttanad

Among all of these, Vembanad Lake is the largest and perhaps the most famous.

Many of Kerala's popular houseboat experiences take place here.

Why Are They Called Backwaters?

The name itself is quite interesting.

Unlike rivers that flow directly towards the sea, these water bodies often lie behind the coastline, connected through narrow channels and lagoons.

Because they remain "behind" the coastal strip rather than directly opening into the sea, they came to be known as backwaters.

For local communities, however, they are much more than a tourist attraction.

These waterways have served as highways for centuries.

Before roads became common, people travelled between villages almost entirely by boat.

Children went to school by boat.

Farmers transported produce by boat.

Fishermen earned their livelihood here.

The backwaters shaped Kerala's economy long before tourism discovered them.

The Great Floods of Kerala

Talking about Alleppey also means talking about one of the biggest challenges the region has faced.

Being surrounded by interconnected water bodies makes Alappuzha especially vulnerable during periods of heavy rainfall.

Kerala has witnessed several floods throughout its history, but the devastating floods of 2018 remain deeply remembered.

Exceptionally heavy monsoon rains, combined with overflowing rivers and reservoirs, affected large parts of the state, including Alappuzha.

Roads disappeared under water.

Thousands of families had to be rescued.

Tourism temporarily came to a halt.

Yet what stood out during that difficult period was the incredible unity shown by local communities, fishermen, volunteers, and rescue teams, many of whom used boats to reach stranded families.

Today, life has returned to normal, but the floods remain an important reminder of both the power of nature and the resilience of Kerala's people.

Why We Couldn't Wait Any Longer

As our car continued moving through Kerala's roads, lush greenery surrounded us from every direction.

Every few kilometres seemed more beautiful than the last.

Sometimes we'd see endless coconut trees.

Sometimes narrow canals running beside the road.

Sometimes small colourful houses reflecting in the water.

Every turn felt like a postcard.

And with every passing kilometre, one thought kept crossing our minds.

How beautiful would the houseboat actually be?

We had seen countless photographs.

Watched endless videos.

Read dozens of travel blogs.

But finally...

We were only a short drive away from experiencing Kerala's famous backwaters for ourselves.

What happened after we stepped onto the houseboat turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of our entire Kerala trip.

But that story deserves a chapter of its own.